Dusty book stall archeologist and writer Jonathan Guyer oversees the far reaching effects of visual culture in our modern ‘all about appearances’ world.
Through frequent excursions to the bookshops of downtown Cairo in Egypt, Guyer has unearthed a wealth of forgotten political narratives and overlooked illustrative histories. Book-ending his fascination with the alternative story lines of locally appropriated Western comics, Guyer’s faith in the ethical and ideological potential of cartoons and satirical imagery extends to the underground artistic movements of contemporary self-published zine-makers. In his eloquent interview, the prolific and level-headed writer remarks on welcome shifts in the Middle Eastern visual landscape, the necessary and terrifying obligations of artists, and the autonomy of art in an authoritative society.
Adaptive and indomitable painter Bascha Mon has traced each frame of light between the new and full moons. Bound to spontaneity and guided by intuition, Mon’s practice feels out a logic from the sanctuary and purgatory of a blank canvas. Impelled by the psychic pains of a laboring human family, Mon retrieves the fragments of her commiserating heart from the cold grasp of reality, like pulling her distorted reflection from the surface of the water. Expressed in her stirring and poignant interview, Mon’s necessary attachment to art conceals a deep solidarity with the misplaced souls of the Earth, who struggle to make sense of an existence where whimsy and intense meaning coexist. The sage observer and painter is never dissatisfied by an individual work, as no piece is anything less than perfect if it belongs to a whole.
Reading something interesting?
Tom Allen, is ensnared by the vehement poems of mid 19th century writer Jules Laforgue, the progenitor of free verse in the French tradition and treasure to the great modernist poets. Laforgue fashioned his fervent style of observation from the fiery idealism of the symbolists and the microcosmic subjectivity of impressionism. Another one of our users, Niels Van Tomme, is pleasantly amused by the playful and engaging Shipping Container, Craig Martin’s contribution to the Object Lessons series. Martin’s colorful prose enlivens the itinerant existence of this ubiquitous transport vessel, the unsung hero of our convenient and mobile world.
Urging the flow of time and water is the promise of change made by a fork in the stream.
Residents of the City of Lahti in Southern Finland live close to nature. More than one in two live less than 300 metres from a quiet area. In Lahti, an area is defined as quiet when there are mainly natural sounds and no traffic noise, for example. Quiet places in Lahti include the extensive outdoor areas of Salpausselkä ridge system, many parks, and protected natural areas. www.lahti.fi
Inspired by the country’s highly effective deposit system for beverage containers, the Finnish city is piloting an incentive-based system for recycling textiles. Finns recycle up to 97% of aluminum cans, will a small reward inspire them to sort and recycle their old fabrics?
The average European throws away 11kg of textiles every year*. Around the world, a truckload of textiles is landfilled or incinerated every single second. Separate collection of textile waste is set to be rolled out across the EU by 2025, but to change our bad textile habits, a lot of work is needed. Lahti’s textile deposit hopes to inspire a change in consumer behavior.
“As a pioneer in urban environmentalism, Lahti has set a goal of being a waste free city by 2050. The textile deposit is a great example of an everyday innovation that directly aims to minimize the amount of waste and showcases the potential of discarded textiles as a raw material for industries and design,” says Communications Director Veera Hämäläinen from the City of Lahti.
New Waste Act promotes circularity
Finland took a step towards a circular economy for textiles at the beginning of the year, as a new law requiring cities and municipalities to make separate collection bins for textile waste available to all Finns came into effect. The separate collection of textile waste makes it possible for discarded clothes and household textiles to be reused as recycled fiber.
“Our future depends on a circular economy, but it can’t just be the consumers’ responsibility to take care of recycling. With this pilot we want to ask what countries, cities and companies can do to help make recycling easier and more attractive to people. Deposits have worked well before, maybe there could be one for textiles in the future”, says Kimmo Rinne, Development Manager at Salpakierto, a municipal company that handles waste management in the Lahti Region.
The textile Deposit asks if an incentive can inspire locals to recycle
The pilot on a textile deposit aims to investigate if a citywide reward system can incentivise locals to recycle their textiles. At the pilot stage, Lahti residents can exchange a bagful of textiles for vouchers for local services, such as cafes or passes to a local pool. Initially, the pilot will run during the first weeks of June. Cities have a major role in making recycling easy for people. As a leading environmental city, Lahti wants to be in the forefront of leading the conversation on how cities can lead the change into a more sustainable lifestyle.
The City of Lahti is also launching a national design competition that aims to find new and creative uses for discarded textiles. The competition runs from now to 13 August 2023. With the design competition Lahti wants to promote innovation and entrepreneurship in the field of circular economy. The competition is organized in collaboration with the Sustainable Lahti Foundation, LAB University of Applied Sciences and Salpakierto.
The textiles collected in Lahti will be processed into recycled fiber at Finland’s largest textile processing facility in Paimio. In the spirit of circular economy, the recovered fiber can be used in the production of new products, such as thread, insulation materials and acoustic panels. For the Silo,Veera Hämäläinen.
Lahti Lahti tackles future challenges together with residents, companies and the educational sector. A sustainable future calls for action, which is why Lahti will achieve carbon neutrality by 2025. As the leading environmental city in Finland, we offer our citizens everyday life that is both smooth and sustainable.
New book explores the story of India’s richly coloured textiles ahead of ROM original exhibition
Photography by Tina Weltz
TORONTO — The Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) is pleased to announce the publication of Cloth that Changed the World: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz on December 2, 2019. The collection of essays explores the far-reaching influence this vividly printed and painted cotton cloth has had on the world, from its origins 5,000 years ago to its place in fashion and home décor today. The volume is the official companion to the ROM-original exhibition The Cloth that Changed the World: India’s Painted and Printed Cottons, which runs from April 4 to September 27, 2020 in Toronto.
“The world would be a drab place without India,” says Sarah Fee, editor, Cloth that Changed the World and ROM Senior Curator of Eastern Hemisphere Fashion and Textiles. “Our blue jeans and printed T-shirts trace much of their lineage back to the ingenuity of India’s cotton printers and dyers. This exhibition and companion book celebrate how India ‘clothed the world’ in exuberantly coloured cottons for thousands of years. It explores the art’s resiliency in the face of modern industrial imitation and shares the exciting stories of reviving natural dyes and hand skills in India today.”
Contributing writers include leading experts Ruth Barnes, Rosemary Crill, Steven Cohen, Deepali Dewan, Max Dionisio, Eiluned Edwards, Sarah Fee, Maria João Ferreira, Sylvia Houghteling, Peter Lee, Hanna Martinsen, Deborah A. Metsger, Alexandra Palmer, Divia Patel, Giorgio Riello, Rajarshi Sengupta, Philip Sykas, and João Teles e Cunha, and a preface by Sven Beckert, Harvard University’s Laird Bell Professor of History.
The striking exhibition will explore thought-provoking themes, including the ingenuity, skill and technique of Indian artisans; the adaptation of chintz for international markets; and the environmental impact of the global textile industry over time. With a focus on attire and home furnishings, the exhibition features 80 objects spanning 10 centuries and four continents. Religious and court banners for India, monumental gilded wall hangings for elite homes in Europe and Thailand, and luxury women’s dress for England showcase the versatility and far-reaching desire for Indian Chintz.
About Sarah Fee (Curator and Editor)
Dr. Sarah Fee is Senior Curator of Eastern Hemisphere fashion and textiles at the Royal Ontario Museum. She has degrees in Anthropology and African studies from Oxford University and the School of Oriental Studies, Paris, and in 2002, guest-curated an exhibition on Madagascar for the Smithsonian’s National Museum of African Art. Today, she continues to focus on Malagasy historic textiles and fashions, in addition to those of Zanzibar and Western India. A research associate at the Musée du Quai Branly, Paris, and the Indian Ocean World Centre at McGill University, Fee also teaches at the University of Toronto’s Department of Art. Fee is a past Board Member of the Textile Society of America, and currently sits on the editorial board of the Textile Museum Journal (TMJ).
About the Publication
Cloth that Changed the World: The Art and Fashion of Indian Chintz Editor: Sarah Fee Available at the ROM store starting December 2, 2019. 9 x 12, 272 pages, 300 colour illustrations. $50.00. Royal Ontario Museum and Yale University Press.
Founded in 1914, the Royal Ontario Museum showcases art, culture and nature from around the world and across the ages. Among the top 10 cultural institutions in North America, Canada’s largest and most comprehensive museum is home to a world-class collection of 13 million art objects and natural history specimens, featured in 40 gallery and exhibition spaces. As the country’s preeminent field research institute and an international leader in new and original findings, the ROM plays a vital role in advancing our understanding of the artistic, cultural and natural world. Combining its original heritage architecture with the contemporary Daniel Libeskind-designed Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, the ROM serves as a national landmark, and a dynamic cultural destination in the heart of Toronto for all to enjoy.