Adam Jacob sent in this tell-all graphic that is pretty shocking. If these statistics are true then ‘it’s clear the small food producer is an endangered species. Unless of course, they start supplying the big chain corporate grocery store chains. And that will likely spell the end of family farm gate-retail…and that will spell the end of the family farm. It is so important to support local farm to table initiatives and preserve food that is not only grown for profit, but grown for quality and healthy consumption.
To learn more about the consolidation of (North) American food and the implications for Ontarians, visit Silo Direct Link to Frugaldad.com
On July 1, 2015, Ontario was the first jurisdiction in North America to protect bees and other pollinators through new rules to reduce the number of acres planted with neonicotinoid-treated corn and soybean seeds by 80 per cent.
To support this goal, new requirements were put in place for the sale and use of neonicotinoid-treated corn and soybean seed that will help ensure treated seed is only used when there is evidence of a pest problem. Reducing neonicotinoid use in these two crops presents the greatest potential to reduce pollinator exposure to the neurotoxic insecticide.
Pollinators, including bees, birds and butterflies, play a crucial role in agriculture and our ecosystem. The level of over-winter losses considered to be acceptable and sustainable by most apiculturists is 15 per cent.
The new rules are one part of Ontario’s strategy to improve pollinator health. The province will also develop a pollinator health action plan in consultation with the public and experts to address other stressors that affect pollinators.
Ensuring a strong and healthy agricultural sector is part of the government’s economic plan for Ontario. The four part plan is building Ontario up by investing in people’s talents and skills, making the largest investment in public infrastructure in Ontario’s history, creating a dynamic, innovative environment where business thrives, and building a secure retirement savings plan.
QUOTES
“Much of the food we eat and the vibrancy of Ontario’s natural habitats depend on a healthy pollinator population. Our government is taking necessary action to protect these vitally important species and the ecosystems they support from the effects of neurotoxic neonicotinoids.”
— Glen Murray, Minister of the Environment and Climate Change
“Farmers are environmental stewards of their land and this regulation will enable our province’s farmers to strengthen their approach to protecting their crops. To have a significant impact on improving pollinator health, over the coming months, we collectively need to focus on three additional contributors: habitat and nutrition, disease and pests as well as weather and climate change.”
— Jeff Leal, Minister of Agriculture, Food and Rural Affairs
“Farmers care about the health of pollinators. That’s why the Ontario Federation of Agriculture (OFA) has worked closely with the Government of Ontario to have these new regulatory requirements work for the province’s farmers. The OFA supports the need for a complete pollinator policy. The OFA will continue to work with the government toward the successful implementation of this regulation, keeping the concerns of farmers top of mind as part of a pollinator strategy.”
Don McCabe, President, Ontario Federation of Agriculture
“Friends of the Earth is pleased and impressed by Ontario’s leadership in finalizing this first permanent reduction in the use of neonicotinoids in Canada. With its new pesticide regulation, Ontario is delivering important benefits for nature including honey bees, native bees and other vulnerable species.”
Beatrice Olivastri, Chief Executive Officer, Friends of the Earth Canada
“Doctors are delighted Ontario will be North America’s first jurisdiction to introduce regulatory restrictions on bee-killing neonic pesticides. Assuming Ontario hits its target of an 80% reduction by 2017, this will be the most important pollinator-protection policy on the continent — and a major contributor to food security.”
Gideon Forman, Executive Director, Canadian Association of Physicians for the Environment
QUICK FACTS
There are more than 400 pollinator species in Ontario and bees are the most common pollinator.
Bees and other pollinators are responsible for pollinating roughly 13 per cent of agricultural crops in Ontario (crops worth about $897 million), and support $26 million annually in honey production.
The province conducted a comprehensive, two-stage consultation process with the public and stakeholders to develop its neonicotinoid regulatory requirements.
Neonicotinoid-treated seeds are widely used in agriculture. Close to 100 per cent of corn seed and 60 per cent of soybean seed sold in the province is treated with neonicotinoid insecticides.
A new tax credit is helping put nutritious, fresh, locally grown food on the plates of those who need it most.
The Food Donation Tax Credit for Farmers — the only one of its kind in Canada — is giving farmers a tax credit valued at 25 per cent of the fair market value of the agricultural products they donate to community food programs, including food banks and student nutrition programs.
Building a stronger agri-food industry is part of the government’s economic plan to support a dynamic and innovative business climate, invest in people and invest in infrastructure.
QUOTES
“This new tax credit will help farmers donate more fresh food to their local food banks, which will support our farmers, drive local economic growth, and benefit families in communities across the province.”
— Charles Sousa, Minister of Finance
“Ontario’s farmers have a long tradition of donating their agricultural products to charitable causes, and we believe this credit will both honour that tradition and help motivate others to donate.”
Neil Currie, General Manager, Ontario Federation of Agriculture
“Everyone should have the opportunity to enjoy local food, and we applaud the Ontario government for introducing a tax credit that will encourage more farmers to make that food available to families and individuals who need it most. Many food bank clients do not receive the recommended daily servings of fruits, vegetables, and protein, which causes additional strains on one’s health and well-being. A balanced diet with local, fresh, and nutritious foods will help improve the health of food bank clients as well as the health of communities across Ontario.”
— Bill Laidlaw, Executive Director, Ontario Association of Food Banks
“Hamilton Food Share has focused on increasing the amount of fresh product distributed to local emergency food programs as the thousands of people who visit a food bank do not have access to fresh food on an ongoing basis. We remain deeply committed to food security and we believe the new tax credit for farm donations will help us forge new partnerships within the agricultural sector in our community.”
— Joanne Santucci, Executive Director, Hamilton Food Share.
QUICK FACTS
One-third of the 375,000 Ontarians served by a food bank every month are children.
More than 600,000 children and youth participate in breakfast, snack and lunch programs in communities across Ontario.
Under the proclaimed legislation, farmers can claim the new tax credit for donations dating back to Jan. 1, 2014.
Ontario’s agri-food sector contributes about $34 billion to the province’s economy and supports more than 740,000 jobs across Ontario.
Ontario is moving forward to help promote the good things that are grown, harvested and processed in Ontario with today’s passage of the Local Food Act, 2013. The new legislation is part of a strategy http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/about/localfood.htm to build Ontario’s economy by making more local food available in markets, schools, cafeterias, grocery stores and restaurants. This will create jobs and expand the province’s agri-food sector.
The new legislation — the first of its kind in Canada — will increase local food awareness, and boost sales by setting local food goals and targets in consultation with sector partners. The act will also create a non-refundable tax credit of 25 per cent for farmers who donate their surplus harvest to eligible community food programs such as food banks, and proclaim a Local Food Week that will take place annually, beginning the first Monday in June. Building a stronger agri-food industry is part of the government’s economic plan to support a dynamic and innovative business climate, invest in people and invest in infrastructure.
QUOTES
“The Local Food Act will benefit people by making the connection between buying local and helping grow an important Ontario industry. If we increase demand to homegrown food, we will create jobs and boost the agri-food sector’s contributions to our economy. It’s an important and historic step forward and I thank everyone who helped support this legislation.” — Kathleen Wynne, Premier of Ontario and Minister of Agriculture and Food
“The Local Food Act will serve as a constant reminder of the bounty of Ontario. The Ontario Federation of Agriculture is happy to see that it will target food literacy, local food use and will help farmers attend to the needs of others through a community food donation tax credit.” — Mark Wales, Ontario Federation of Agriculture
“By raising the profile of local food, the Local Food Act will provide Ontario food and beverage processors with an opportunity to further develop local food systems and market development strategies. Ontario consumers are demanding high quality food and drink, and our processors are willing and able to deliver. ” — Steve Peters, Alliance of Ontario Food Processors
QUICK FACTS
The Local Food Act will also require the government to produce an annual local food report on its activities to support local food. The province’s agri-food sector contributes approximately $34 billion to the economy and supports more than 740,000 jobs across Ontario. The province’s farmers produce more than 200 commodities, including fruits, vegetables, livestock, dairy, poultry, grains and oilseeds. Food processors in Ontario purchase about two-thirds of the food that is produced on the province’s farms.
Ontario’s Local Food Fund is part of a $30 million investment from the province to create jobs and support innovative local food projects over the next three years (2013-2016).
Maxim Voronov is Associate Professor of Strategic Management at the Goodman School of Business, Brock University, and is also a Fellow of the Cold Climate Oenology and Viticulture Institute (CCOVI), one of the principle academic research engines currently informing the Ontario wine industry; helping it find its rightful and deserved place in the global marketplace.
Oenology (pr. Een-ology) comes from the Greek root oinos, and essentially means “the study or science of winemaking.” Professor Voronov, along with fellow Brock colleagues Dirk De Clercq and Narongsak Thongpapanl, and with Bob Hinings of the University of Alberta School of Business, recently completed a 6 year study of the Ontario wine industry and its strategic positioning in relation to its international, and often more established competitors.
In an exclusive interview with The Silo via Skype, Professor Voronov outlined the overall methodology of his study. He and his colleagues conducted interviews with various stakeholders in the Ontario wine industry, including makers and growers, LCBO executives, wine critics, and they surveyed press coverage, websites, and over 250 restaurateurs regarding their attitudes toward Ontario wine. Their conclusions: the Ontario wine industry needs to adopt a two-fold focus in order to hold their own in a competitive global market. There are 3 distinct growing regions or “appellations” in Ontario (otherwise known as DVA’s or Designated Viticultural Areas). They are the Niagara Peninsula, our largest and arguably most “storied” region, Prince Edward County to the east, and the Lake Erie North Shore appellation to the south-west, beneficiary of the greatest number of heat-units per growing season, including Pelee Island and, hopefully soon, our own, relatively new “South Coast” growing region. But in spite of these localized differentiations, cautions Voronov, ultimately our industry represents a cool-climate production zone by international standards and needs to focus on grape varietals that can consistently and reliably perform in a somewhat unreliable climate.
The second area of focus needs to be the conscious practice of exporting the best of Ontario fine wines to the “tastemaking” markets of the wine world, like New York and London. Commercial and critical success in these regions will not only cement Ontario’s legitimate place in the global wine industry, but also enhance the attractiveness of Ontario fine wines in our own, domestic market, somewhat akin to the phenomenon of the Canadian actor or musician who labours away in relative obscurity for years, until finally being “discovered” by some international authority and emerging as a hometown hero. A recent effort on this front was the “Rediscover Canadian Wines” trade and media tasting event at the Canadian Embassy in Trafalgar Square, London, England. Supported by Wine Country Ontario, in partnership with Foreign Affair and International Trade Canada, The Ontario Ministry of Agriculture and Food, and the Canadian High Commission in London, this was a major wine happening. Our own CCOVI hosted and organized the wine submissions for the screening process.
About 100 Canadian wines were chosen for the high profile tasting. On May 16th, the day of the event, world renowned wine expert Jancis Robinson, author of The Oxford Companion to Wine, now in its third edition, tweeted: “Today’s Canadian tasting in London shd have dispelled a few prejudices” (@JancisRobinson). Still, Ontario remains one of the most open marketplaces in the world, which means that domestic wines must compete with a vast array of both new and established global brands without necessarily enjoying a home advantage. Ontario does not currently export significantly to other markets, and local wineries are caught in a kind of dilemma: that of establishing conformity with old-world traditions in a “New Age” of Ontario fine-winemaking, while at the same time trying to assert their distinctiveness in the context of international trade.
A word here on price-point. Many Ontario consumers who would otherwise like to support the local industry wonder why they should pay more for an Ontario wine than a proven, reliable import. A good question. According to Voronov there is a simple answer: economies of scale. The greater number of product units generated, the lower the overall cost per unit to the consumer. Comparatively, most Ontario wineries are small and have to contend with fickle climates. Ontario simply cannot compete on a unit cost basis with international wineries boasting thousands of acres of land in relatively stable climates. And in a global industry currently fascinated with big, bold red wines—which flourish primarily in warm growing regions—Voronov believes Ontario needs to unapologetically embrace its cool-climate status and focus on light to medium-bodied reds which can be consistently and confidently produced, wines like Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc and the Baco-Noir hybrid so successfully expressed by Niagara’s Henry of Pelham.
A notable exception came up in the April 27th edition of Vintages Magazine, where Norfolk County’s own Burning Kiln Winery’s “Strip Room Merlot/Cabernet Franc” was identified and praised as an “Ontario appassimento.” Burning Kiln is one of a number of Norfolk County Wineries to receive the VQA (Vintner’s Quality Assurance) stamp of approval. The VQA designation, similar to the AOC and DOC systems in France and Italy respectively, provides assurance that the consumer is purchasing quality “wines of origin” that have met strict guidelines for excellence (www.vqaontario.com). Now back to appassimento. The method is an ancient one and involves drying harvested grapes to the point of shriveling, in order to concentrate the fruit sugars and therefore the overall boldness and complexity of the wine. Italian Amarone is well known appassimento, but it exists in very elite class, with retail prices starting in the $40-$60 range and up.
Coming in at $24.95 a bottle, Burning Kiln’s Strip Room appassimento is a bargain and may well be worth trying as a new, local expression of an ancient technique. There is debate over whether, in the long term, appassimento can be seen as an answer to Ontario’s problem producing bolder reds. According to Professor Voronov, we need to concentrate on what we do best, including aromatic whites like Riesling and Chardonnay, grapes whose character actually benefit from ample day to night temperature fluctuations and generally cooler conditions. An interesting side note: Australia, with its warm climate, has had little success in producing a Riesling of note. According to celebrated wine critic Ian D’agata, Director of the International Wine Academy in Rome: “Once wine lovers the world over realize that Ontario and parts of BC are some of the few viticultural areas in the world with the potential for truly memorable pinot noir, and that Canada is already one of the three or four best countries in the world for riesling, with more than adequate chardonnay, pinot gris and more, Canadian wines will become increasingly sought after.” As an example, Cave Springs Estates Riesling, of the Beamsville Bench Niagara sub-appellation, has gained a reputation as one of the world’s finest dry Rieslings. In the opinion of Voronov et. al, the Ontario industry as a whole needs to have a conversation about its identity, its image—its “symbolic value in the aggregate.”
Symbolic value refers to a sense of “specialness” above and beyond what is simply contained in the bottle. There are several recognized ways to create symbolic value for any experience-based product, one of which is called “rhetorical history.” Interestingly, big multinationals like Kellogg’s and IBM have begun to employ “corporate historians,” people with a knack for selectively engaging the “facts” in order to create value-laden narratives for the benefit of their brands. In other words, Ontario wineries need to tell compelling stories about their products: the generations of family who have worked the land, the continued utilization and restoration of historic buildings, connections to old-world practices and techniques, and meaningful innovations based on their particular terroir (which I will come back to shortly). Again, Burning Kiln asserts itself as a savvy business in this respect. It turns out that tobacco kilns maximize air flow and provide a perfect drying environment for the appassimento style. In this way, the winery can embrace its history of tobacco production on the land while at the same time profiting from historic structures (the kilns, not to mention the attractive main building, which is a repurposed pack barn) to create a novel, local innovation tied to a centuries-old Greek and Italian wine tradition.
This brings us back around to the concept of terrior [April 2011 https://www.thesilo.ca/terroir-what-this-means-to-local-wine-and-cheese-by-scott-jensen/ CP] —I promised I’dreturn. Literally the word means “land,” but in the wine industry, terroir is an essential part of the story of any wine or wine region. It refers to the set of special characteristics that the geography, geology, soil conditions and climate of a particular place, interacting with plant genetics, add to agricultural products such as wine, coffee, chocolate, etc. You can visit the website of virtually any global winery and find a detailed discussion of its particular, and therefore inherently “special,” terroir. But put aside for a moment the individual soil characteristics of the various Ontario wine regions, dating back to glacial histories—which do indeed influence the personalities of individual wines—and consider the overarching and, according to Voronov and associates, critical variable of cold and often fluctuating climate conditions.
And then consider a very interesting case study and global success story: New Zealand. New Zealand, as a cool-climate wine region, is producing some respectable reds like Pinot Noir and Syrah, a mellower version of the now famous Australian Shiraz (same varietal, different spelling). But the vintners of New Zealand, overall, seem to have consciously and intentionally hitched their wagons to the production of aromatic whites like Chardonnay, Pinot Gris and, most especially, Sauvignon Blanc. Now, I am no certified sommelier, but I can say that my experience of Kim Crawford’s Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, one of the region’s leading and critically acclaimed exponents of the varietal, stands as an utterly distinct expression of the grape compared to European examples. Its full-mouth, fruity and floral character completely sets it apart from traditional European Sauvignon Blancs. It is absolutely worth the extra few dollars. It is unique, distinct: “special.” New Zealand has embraced its uniqueness, and, this point is instructive—so has the rest of the world. Because New Zealand, unlike Ontario, exports its wines prodigiously. The Ontario Wine industry could take a few pointers here.
Symbolic value, in the end, won’t mean much if the wine in the bottle doesn’t live up to its constructed narrative, no matter how enticing. Ontario’s climate, on the whole, lends itself to the production of some respectable light to medium- bodied reds, but, like New Zealand, our terroir, on the whole, is most amenable to producing exceptional aromatic whites. The Prince Edward County appellation, not to mention being uncommonly picturesque, is Ontario’s coldest wine region, with a shorter growing season and colder winters than Niagara, yet it still produces wines of both national and international distinction. According to Montreal Gazette wine critic Bill Zacharkiw, much like New Zealand, “PEC’s greatest strength, aside from its limestone soils, is that it seems to have accepted who it is and is comfortable with that.” In his six year study, Voronov found what he considers an over-emphasis on the part of Ontario wineries with conformity to “old-world” traditions, and not enough emphasis on our distinctiveness, our specialness—on what we and only we can do given the particularities of our unique terroir. For Voronov, the Ontario industry needs to consider the construction of a “meta-image” for Ontario wine, an overarching “meaning structure,” including, perhaps, environmental sustainability, that will resonate with both domestic and international consumers, backed up by the consistently reproducible quality of the product.
Think about it: wouldn’t it be great to see a day when more Ontario consumers pick up a bottle of locally produced wine and say, “Ya, this is worth the extra few bucks.” For the Silo, Alan Gibson.