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The Protected Origin And Definition Of Spanish Cheese

One of my newest cheese loves is not a new cheese at all, but, actually, the traditional cheese of Spain. Manchego is a smaller wheel of Spanish sheep’s milk cheese that just makes the mouth water. It is regulated by Spain under the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), which was granted through the European Union. (in a nutshell, PDO allows for exclusive food/geographical production so for example, in Europe, Parma Ham can only be sold and labelled as Parma Ham if it originated in Parma see link below for more CP ) This means that it must meet specific regulations in order to be called Manchego. It must be made from whole sheep’s milk taken from animals that have grazed in autumn in La Mancha province. Finished cheese must be aged from 60 days to 2 years. The milk must contain at least 6% fat and each stone, or wheel, of cheese must weigh between 2 and 3.5 kg.


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There is a distinctive pattern engraved in the inedible brown rind of the cheese.

Originally, the Manchego curd was hand pressed in plaited esparto grass baskets. The grass was taken from the same fields where the sheep grazed, and  the grass-flowers pressed into the top. Today, however, press moulds are formed using the traditional pattern and the grass baskets have been phased out of production. Still, the traditional zigzag is how you can recognize Manchego at your favourite cheese shop—and always look for the PDO label.

The inside of the cheese, or the paste, is an off-white that hints at golden. As the cheese gets closer to the rind, the colour progresses to more of an umber. Very small pockets of air are produced as the cheese ages and releases co2.

But enough of all this—the important part of Manchego is the taste. It has a wonderful, mellow flavour that is rich and subtle at the same time. There are slight hints of smoke, woody nuts, tobacco, honey and leather, and it finishes with the distinctive taste that only sheep’s milk can give you. Manchego can be served with olives, sundried tomatoes or hearty crusty bread. It pairs easily with a fine Rioja red wine or a fruity sherry—a wonderful way to stay warm on a winter’s evening.

Recently I heard that Manchego, cut in smaller chunks and dipped in honey poured on a plate, makes a fine conclusion to full meal. I tried this desert idea and the flavours of honey and cheese together are just wonderful. The smoky taste that coats the taste buds is a joy.

For the more daring, this traditional dessert of Spanish Manchego and honey also pairs well with a fine Cuban cigar. Enjoy your cheese.

Waaay back in 2007 the “Govinator” raised a few eyebrows at Ottawa’s Westin Hotel. After taking in a Sen’s hockey game, Arnold made an unscheduled stop for a 16$ Partagas Cuban

For the Silo, Scott Jensen.

Supplemental- Protected Designation of Origin Labelling, Terroir and the implications for Ontario agriculture: www.sustainontario.com/2010/05/11/2180/food-processing/protected-designation-of-labelling

Parma Ham and PDO:  www.prosciuttodiparma.com

Arnold enjoys Cuban Cigar while in Ottawa: www.activerain.com/blogsview/114533/-arnie-partakes-in-the-luxury-of-a-fine-cuban-stogie-after-hockey-game-in-ottawa

Terroir

Wine and cheese pairing is not just for the snobby connoisseur or the elite diner. Anyone can be a part of this wonderful dining experience and spend an evening savoring it yourself. Since all of us are different and more importantly, all of our taste buds are different, what master vintners and world class fromagiers may say is a correct pairing, may not work for the rest of us. By all means listen to what they might suggest, because they have a lot of experience with taste –but, remember they are just suggestions.  It’s the differences that make life interesting.

Cheese and wine by their very nature are even different from vat to vat. You may be making the same product, but in the food world, there are many variables to production. Terroir plays a significant role in both wine and cheese.  Grapes taken from sunny slopes of Italy have a different terroir than grapes taken from valleys in France. It’s the same with cheese. Milk coming from animals in Swiss Alpine regions possesses distinct flavors that differ from milk from animals on Canadian Prairies.

Understanding the basic concepts of flavors and how they pair, will give you a platform to make your own pairing decisions.  Cheese influences the taste of wine more than vice versa. Wines with lots of flavour work with cheese that also have lots of flavour.  Subtle wines work with delicate cheese; therefore hard cheese with red wines and soft cheese with white. Fruity wines pair nicely with tangy acidic cheese. A sour salty cheese makes a wine taste milder. Sometimes, pairing wines with cheese from the same area works well together. Spicy flavored cheese work well with sweet desert wines.

Sometimes a heavy sugar wine works with a blue cheese. But, in the long run, it’s all up to you to try it out, and find out what sits well with you.  Your goal is to create a balance of flavors of wine and cheese together.

Here are a few pairings of wine and cheese that you might care to try out.

Florence Estate Winery from Langton has a delightful chardonnay -with its light oak and hints of fruit pairs well with the Swiss Alpine Gruyere from the Canton of Fribourg. The subtle textures of the cheese draw out the fruity hints of the wine.

Villa Nova Estate Winery has a Riesling that is clear and floral, and the terroir of their region adds a slight twist of richness that differs slightly German Rieslings. This makes pairing with the English Double Gloucester a true experience. The saltiness of the cheddar takes the edge from the sweetness of the wine.

I am looking forward to sampling the other Norfolk County wines from Burning Kiln, Burning Mills Villa Nova Estate and Wooden Bear-L , when I get the chance. Maybe this weekend I can give it a shot with some close friends and a board of cheese. For the Silo, Scott Jensen.