One of my newest cheese loves is not a new cheese at all, but, actually, the traditional cheese of Spain. Manchego is a smaller wheel of Spanish sheep’s milk cheese that just makes the mouth water. It is regulated by Spain under the PDO (Protected Designation of Origin), which was granted through the European Union. (in a nutshell, PDO allows for exclusive food/geographical production so for example, in Europe, Parma Ham can only be sold and labelled as Parma Ham if it originated in Parma see link below for more CP ) This means that it must meet specific regulations in order to be called Manchego. It must be made from whole sheep’s milk taken from animals that have grazed in autumn in La Mancha province. Finished cheese must be aged from 60 days to 2 years. The milk must contain at least 6% fat and each stone, or wheel, of cheese must weigh between 2 and 3.5 kg.
There is a distinctive pattern engraved in the inedible brown rind of the cheese.
Originally, the Manchego curd was hand pressed in plaited esparto grass baskets. The grass was taken from the same fields where the sheep grazed, and the grass-flowers pressed into the top. Today, however, press moulds are formed using the traditional pattern and the grass baskets have been phased out of production. Still, the traditional zigzag is how you can recognize Manchego at your favourite cheese shop—and always look for the PDO label.
The inside of the cheese, or the paste, is an off-white that hints at golden. As the cheese gets closer to the rind, the colour progresses to more of an umber. Very small pockets of air are produced as the cheese ages and releases co2.
But enough of all this—the important part of Manchego is the taste. It has a wonderful, mellow flavour that is rich and subtle at the same time. There are slight hints of smoke, woody nuts, tobacco, honey and leather, and it finishes with the distinctive taste that only sheep’s milk can give you. Manchego can be served with olives, sundried tomatoes or hearty crusty bread. It pairs easily with a fine Rioja red wine or a fruity sherry—a wonderful way to stay warm on a winter’s evening.
Recently I heard that Manchego, cut in smaller chunks and dipped in honey poured on a plate, makes a fine conclusion to full meal. I tried this desert idea and the flavours of honey and cheese together are just wonderful. The smoky taste that coats the taste buds is a joy.
For the more daring, this traditional dessert of Spanish Manchego and honey also pairs well with a fine Cuban cigar. Enjoy your cheese.
For the Silo, Scott Jensen.
Supplemental- Protected Designation of Origin Labelling, Terroir and the implications for Ontario agriculture: www.sustainontario.com/2010/05/11/2180/food-processing/protected-designation-of-labelling
Parma Ham and PDO: www.prosciuttodiparma.com
Arnold enjoys Cuban Cigar while in Ottawa: www.activerain.com/blogsview/114533/-arnie-partakes-in-the-luxury-of-a-fine-cuban-stogie-after-hockey-game-in-ottawa–
Nice story I read this last year in your paper. I hope Scott writes more about cheese because there is so much to learn ifd you want to become a connoisseur. Ps did you know Scott is also an excellent artist?